The Id Kah Mosque is Kashi’s biggest mosque and one of the most holy places
in the Muslim world. It is said that the mosque was first built in 1798,
and rebuilt several times. Encompassing one hectare (2.5 acres), the
mosque is composed or four main parts—the gate tower, courtyard, all
for chanting scriptures, and the auditorium (160-meter-long, and 16 meters
wide, accommodating 5,000 to 6,000 prayers) for routine services. On
both sides of the mosque’s gate stand two 10-meter-high towers, one on
each side, and connected by low walls. If visitors make a trip to Kashi
on a Friday, the day known to Islams as Djumah (Jum’a), when the Muslim
people assembly for midday prayer on yaum al-jum’a (day of assembly),
the biggest religious service of the week. The Muslim people gather together
waiting for the clock striking twelve. The crowd will be large that many
of the worshippers are forced to sit in the courtyard outside the auditorium.
The service starts at 1:15 pm with imam, a mosque’s officiating priest
reciting the Koran, Islam’s holy book, in Arabic and then translating and explaining it
in the Uygur language. Then the group begins to pray. The service will
last for 40 minutes. Each day about 2,000 to 3,000 Muslims attend the
routine service in the Id Kah Mosque, and that number surpasses 6,000
on the say of Djumah. During big festivals like Corban or Rouza (the
Ramadan), the number can be more than 40,000 or 50,000.
Doing business has long been a tradition in Kashi, which was once a key stop
along the well-traveled ancient Silk Road, a time when a steady stream
of traders made their way to the city from the Middle East and the Central
Asia. Uygur people are good at making a variety of handicrafts; markets
with rows of shimmering silks, knives and jewellery; and narrow back
streets lined with aged thatched homes made of plaster. Markets are everywhere
in the city. The major market is the Kashi International Trade Market
of Central and Western Asia, a large structure of Muslin architecture.
The building houses numerous stalls selling a large variety of local
products and specialties from the nearby countries such as Pakistan,
Afghanistan, India, Turkey and Russia. The market area is indeed popular.
There are 4,800 regular stalls and more than 1,000 temporary ones. Besides,
the number of visitors each day often reaches 50,000. Kashi residents
are primarily Islam, who are typically strict and traditional. But more
women are now taking jobs outside the home as opposed to merely raising children and doing
household tasks.
Kashi has an exotic air to it, due primarily to its intriguing
ethnic mix of Uygurs who comprise the majority of the population with
Tajik, kirghisz, Uzbek, Han, and other ethnic groups. The city’s old
district is home to nearly 100,000 Uygurs, the largest chunk of Uygurs
living in a community in the entire Xinjiang Uygur Autonomous Region.
For centuries, the Uygurs in Kashi prefer to eat their traditional
food called nang馕,a kind of round-shaped cake. There are over 50 varieties
of nang in Kahi with different ingredients or baking methods. The most
traditional nang is made of leavened dough mixed with corn flour and
salt. The Uygurs bake nang in special ovens made of mud bricks. The stove
is large enough to bake some 40 nang at once. Kashi’s Uygurs are big
fans of nang, and one form or another is present at nearly every meal.
They are also the traditional food served when the Uygurs have guests.
They have various ways to serve nang, including served hot, cold, soaked
in tea or milk or served with mutton or fruit.
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